Last night we completed an initial once-over of our Camino pictures so now it is time to reminisce.
For now, we have gotten pretty settled in at our new place (6 month lease). Our new used car is running pretty good and we are happy with the purchase. We are working our way through the holidays, end of year health insurance renewals, and starting back into weekly beach volleyball games as well as maybe the every Saturday evening ‘beach dancing’ event. Our initial plan was/is to possibly find a home to buy. We have 4.5 months left on the lease so we have some time to see what unfolds with the new year. We really really like southern Florida and especially this immediate area but the prices, though receding a little, are still grossly obscenely high. This truly is the ‘gold coast’! We always have the option to rent for another 6 months or year if we can’t find something we want to purchase but we will not extend the lease in the same place we are at now unless forced too. It is in Riverbend Country Club Golf community so overall it is pretty nice but it is in the extreme NW part of Jupiter. It takes at least 10-15 minutes to get to anything commercial and about 35 minutes from the beach. We did the ‘golf thing’ for over 20 years and our clubs are in storage. We have been and are beach bums so our lives revolve around being closer to the beach/water. We certainly could have way worse challenges to deal with and know we are very blessed so we will wait to see what comes our way! Trust!
Back to the Camino: The pictures look quite good. It was/is hard to capture the difficulty and terrible weather we faced at times mainly because who wants to stop, get a phone out, and take a picture of rain, cold, sleet, wind, mud, etc… During those times our heads were down, ponchos, hats, and gloves on, and we were walking as expeditiously as we could to get to the next village. To look at the pictures it looks like it was a pretty nice trip and comfortable walk (all 800km/500miles). In reality, after about 2 weeks of the walk, I was determined to get done as quick as we could, find warm weather, and vowing to never do such a thing again. Now that time has passed, feet and toes are mostly healed, memories of pain fading and the good memories grow as my overall impression is moderating. I am beginning to remember more of the good & nice…nice people, good wine, good beer, beautiful scenery, and nice walks with Denise where we saw no one for hours (my favorite part).
There are many ‘paths’ of the Camino. We chose the most popular and one of the longest paths called the Camino Francis. It starts in France in Saint Jean Pied de Port, goes up in to the Pyrenees and crosses into Spain. Eventually the path enters a high plains plateau of vast farmland, finishing back into the foothills of the Pyrenees across Galicia and into Santiago. This is the path made popular by the movie ‘The Way’ starring Martin Sheen.
It is hard to explain the terrain especially in the Pyrenees. It seems northern Spain is all rock, rock, stone, and more rock. Many if not most of the paths were very steep both up and down and there were lots of ups and downs. Going up was very challenging but going down was even harder especially in the wind, fog and rain. Much of the time was spent focusing on your feet and your next step. There were times, especially towards the end that we were walking through ankle deep muck with nowhere else to step to avoid it. Many of these paths were used by the livestock of the local farmers so the muck was also laced at times with manure. I often wondered how even the goats and sheep made it through some areas. The weather played such a monumental impact in our trip.
When we started out we agreed that we had all the time we wanted and we would just enjoy the journey. We didn’t need to push our selves. Many people have short time frames. School breaks, short vacations, etc.. so they do all they can to walk as far as they can each day so they can get done or get as far as possible and then finish the next time they come. Some walk 18-25 miles a day and some have their bags shipped a head so they don’t have to carry them. They have reservations made months in advance for every night’s lodging. We saw many people with bad mass blister problems and even knee injuries who pushed to hard or were ill prepared. We took the opposite approach. We planned on walking +/- 12 miles a day. The least amount we walked was about 8 and the most 19 miles. We walked all 500 miles in 41 days and carried our packs all the way. We rarely made a reservation more then a day a head of us if at all. We knew that if we trusted in God we would be taken care of. We would find beds; we would make it to the next stop; we would find food and drink. It was amazing how many times when things seemed to get very tedious, the weather pretty bad, no beds seemed available, and we were hungry only to unexpectedly find cancellations or an open cafe. A few times a caring Albergue (hostel for pilgrims) manager/owner would call ahead to a friend in the next village and we would have a place waiting for us that was way nicer then what he had or what was the norm. Worrying never made it better or easier. It was just the two of us, no group, no guide.
The weather was projected to be in the 80s with precautions about protecting from the sun during August and September. This seemed to be true up until the morning we left Saint Jean Pied de Port to start our walk. That morning the temperature dropped over 20 degrees and a storm moved in from the mountains. Once we were up in the mountains it was hard to see more than 50 feet due to fog, wind and rain. Most people walk the 18 miles that day to get over the first mountain to Roncesvalles in Spain. Through one of those ‘trusting’ events we ended up securing a cancellation and staying at the lone Albergue which is up in the mountains by itself about half way to Roncesvalles. It was a beautiful place with about 16 beds with great people and great food. It is usually booked solid 6 months out.
We continued on the next day through the weather. At times we worried, but still trusting, as we lost track of the path a couple times due to the weather only to find it soon again without falling off any drop off. I must say that this whole path would NEVER be allowed in the USA. There would be lawyers lined up waiting to sue due to the dangers not mitigated along the way – no barriers, minor or hidden signage, pretty dangerous paths, etc… We are such a pampered society in America.
After Roncesvalles the path was often very very steep and all rock with sharp slabs of slate sticking up from underground, truly fitting for goats. We were often exhausted, shoulders aching, shoes soaked, and beer never tasted so good by the time we stopped for the day. We went through many towns/villages that almost seemed deserted except for the lone cafe/Albergue for the pilgrims. There were ‘Se Vente’ (For Sale) signs on most buildings and homes. Many looked medieval and like they went through a tank battle in WWII but some were also somewhat nice and modern. Farming was definitely the livelihood but it is hard to see how they could grow anything in all that rock.
We also saw some neat towns like Pamplona (famous bull run), Lagrono – capital of La Rioja wine region, Burgos – an amazing Cathedral, León – an elegant city with a rich history (Denise’s favorite big town), Ponferrada – a very large and preserved Knights Templar castle, Sarria – popular starting point for pilgrims taking the shortest possible route and still ‘qualifying’, Astorga – Romanesque bridge and Gothic temple, Gares – picturesque town with Roman vestiges, and Santiago de Compostela – final destination and site of the Cathedral of St. James.
A part of the walk we truly enjoyed was the middle called the Meseta. The Meseta refers to a 180km stretch of the Camino Francés. It lies between the cities of Burgos and León, traversing the flat, hot, and shadeless plains of central Spain. We liked it because it was not only warmer and sunnier but there were miles and miles of rolling farmland. Miles of Vineyards. sunflowers, and olive orchards as far as you could see. Also people seemed to be a lot more scarce and it felt we had the whole plateau to ourselves for hours, miles and days. To us it was very beautiful. We are told a person either loves or hates the Meseta.
After the Meseta we entered Galicia. We loved the wine, the beer and the beef. They are very productive on all three. The food seemed better in this last region. Meals were more creative and flavorful. The downside is that the weather started to deteriorate again as we re-entered the foothills of the Pyrenees. We took a rest day in Leon in a beautiful Airbnb. We really needed the break. It is a really nice city with a beautiful cathedral and history. We finally were able to find a Decathalon store (something like REI) where we bought some new socks and bubble coats to be warm for the rest of the journey. As we put our focus on reaching Santiago the weather collapsed and we were wet. Thank God for our Panama Ponchos!
Reaching Santiago is quite the feeling after 40-50 days of walking, weather, etc…rain or not. Once reaching the city it is still quite a walk until the end of the path at the Cathedral (which is enormous). When you turn the corner and walk into the Cathedral square a pilgrim is most often overwhelmed with emotions. We were overwhelmed also with being soaked! We made it back to our Albergue and got cleaned up and settled in and then headed back to the town center for food and celebratory beverages. What makes this cathedral special? First it is the end of the multiple routes of the Camino. Hundreds of thousands of people walk the Camino each year. Secondly, the remains of Saint James the apostle of Jesus Christ are interred there. The interior is amazingly beautiful and it includes the Botafumeiro.
The Botafumeiro is a famous thurible used at the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, in Spain. Its name comes from the Galician language, where botar means “to eject, to throw away, to expel”, and the Latin fume, meaning “smoke”. It is considered a symbol of both the cathedral and the city. The Botafumeiro is especially celebrated for its swinging motion during the Pilgrim’s Mass and other solemn dates, where it can reach speeds of about 60 km/h. This ritual has been taking place since at least the 12th century. The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is one of the largest censers in the world. For certain important religious occasions, like the Feast of Saint James , it is brought to the floor of the cathedral and attached to a rope hung from the pulley mechanism. The Botafumeiro is suspended 20 m from a pulley mechanism under the dome on the roof of the church. The current pulley mechanism was installed in 1604.
It is rare to see the Botafumeiro in use. The day after we arrived, Friday, it was the feast of Saint Francis of Assisi, who also walked the Camino, and a Pilgrims Mass. The Cathedral was packed for mass and we got to see the Butafumeiro in use. We saw the eight people who in unison pull on the ropes to initiate its swing and arc. It was very ceremonious and impressive as the video shows.
We were leaving Santiago the next day, Saturday. Our destination was Alicante on the East coast of Spain for some sun, rest, and recovery. Of course our last day in Santiago was all rain, rain, and more rain. We were soaked when we got to the airport. We stripped down, dried off, changed, and threw our Camino shoes in the trash. When we arrived in Alicante it was very late and everything was closed, our Airbnb was not available until the next afternoon, so we slept in the airport…and that is another story for another blog post about the rest of our Spanish adventures.
Again the Camino; I said I would never do it again but now I am finding I miss it (sort of). As we returned back to ‘real life’ and had to deal with all the noise, commercialism, news, societal expectations we heard the Camino begin to call. When on the Camino, at least for us, none of this outside noise existed. It may sound boring but everyday boiled down to the same simple things: 6:30-7:30 wake up/get dressed/pack up; 7:30-8 start walking/breakfast/coffee if available; 10-10:30 breakfast #2; 1:30-3 lunch (usually biggest meal); 1:30-3 secure lodging/shower/laundry; 4-5:30 beer/wine/more food; 8PM bedtime. This was pretty much our schedule every single day. Simple, focused, simple.
This simple and focused way of living becomes quite attractive especially now that we are tossed back into ‘reality’. Everything we owned was on our backs. We depended a little on ourselves and a lot on our God. In reality none of the noise really mattered (if it ever really should). We walked and we trusted and we prayed, and we walked some more. It helped a lot that GOOD beer was about $2/btl, GOOD wine was $4-5/Btl, and food, though often boring was pretty cheap. Our lodging was for the most part anywhere from $8-20/bed/night and most always were small and cheap bunk beds. Some places were quite ruff and some quite nice. Ruff: A few places had no toilet seats, paper towels or soap, one shower and toilet to be shared by ALL (20-30 people both sexes), and mats on the floor. One place said to only consume bottled water. Nice: A few places were as good as any moderate hotel room in a nice city. Many places had 40-180 beds. We met a number of really nice folks along the way – Gabriel, Fr. Gerald, Bitta & Erik, Katrina, Angela, Kim, Thomas, etc…of course we didn’t exchange contact information 🙁 . Next time….
As you can possibly imagine there are many side stories we could share but this blog is probably already dragging on. Stories such as when we made the wrong turn and walked miles and hours off our planned path or when Denise broke my big toe or the 50 year old or so women who dropped their drawers right along side a busy street on an elevated berm to relieve themselves when there was a bit of woods just 15 feet away or the towns celebrating their patron saint holiday or the monastery that had a fountain that gave wine vs water or the many many absolutely beautiful churches and church buildings in villages that have been silent for decades….yes it was an adventure!
All in all we always had what we needed, maybe not what we wanted but what we needed. So if I were to do this again what would I do different? I think I would slow down. Maybe only walk +/- 8 miles/day. Relax more. Drink more wine with people. I wouldn’t be so concerned with reaching the destination. Have more enjoyable weather so we could take more time to see what we were walking through and explore more. It is the journey and not the race. Make the journey the goal vs finishing the walk and ensure I always have my partner by my side. I never would have done the Camino let alone finished without my walking partner.
Do it again? A different path – Camino Portugues? A different pilgrimage – Lourdes, Medjugorje? A trip to the far east – Vietnam, Thailand? For now, I think I will relax at he beach for at least a few more months……
Here is a small selection of pictures from the Camino that flow from finish to start.